I was still a teenager when I first moved to Manhattan. I was not the kind of teenager you hope and pray for. I was very troubled, extremely rebellious and incredibly head strong. I’m proud to say that the first two things have changed. The last, well… it’s a trait from my amazing grams so while most say head strong isn’t a quality to brag about, I cherish it.
In any case, I was still in high school when I first moved in with my father. And I had a 10 minute walk to my school that was deep in Chelsea. There were a few amazing things I saw on my way to school.
The first was the Hotel Chelsea. I could actually see the Hotel from my apartment on 23rd Street. It is a very large magnificent building in the middle of the block between 7th and 8th Avenues. When you walk past the hotel, there are a number of plaques telling the stories of the amazing artists, writers and musician’s who stayed there. Yes Sid killed Nancy in Room 100 but many others stayed there. Mark Twain, Dylan Thomas, Arthur Miller, Simone de Beauvoir, Jack Kerouac, Bob Dylan, Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix all lived at the hotel for some time. Andy Warhol shot his film “Chelsea Girls” there and way back in 1910, Titanic survivors stayed there for some time after the accident.
The second was Barney’s. I’m sure I’m dating myself here but Barney’s, in my day, was on 17th Street and there was the main store on 17th and 7th and then there was the Co-Op further toward 8th Avenue. When I wandered into Barney’s to kill time after school one day, I’m not sure I understood the environment I was in, which was probably for the better. But it’s certainly where my love of high-end cosmetics and fragrances comes from. When you walked into the 17th Street store, it was grand. You knew you were some place special. I remember the staircase particularly and how it curved down and around then upwards to the clothing floors. I’ll never be a fan of the Madison Avenue Barney’s. It never felt right to me.
Finally, I would walk past what is now known as the “Chelsea Historic district”. The blocks that are W19th and W23rd Streets between 7th and 10th Avenues have row-style brownstone buildings lining each block. Chelsea, named for the neighborhood in London, went through several changes before my moving there. It was first a private estate then divided and sold to the Episcopal Diocese of NY which built on it’s newly purchased land and sold row houses to the highest bidder. At that time commercial use of the land was forbidden and it stayed that way for 30 years. Then in 1847 a high line railroad was built (it’s still there and is pretty cool to visit) and West Chelsea became pretty industrial; which was the way I saw it when I first moved there.
My school was an “entrance exam only” high school that focused on high scoring kids in Math and Creative Writing (guess which program I attended). And it was funny because the school was surrounded by very industrial buildings and a few gems like Barney’s in that grand looking building and the Hotel Chelsea in it’s bohemian gothic glory. And as I lived there until I got married in my late 20′s, Chelsea morphed from this industrial, baron, deserted district to a haven for art galleries and little boutique’s. It was really the first place in my life that I felt at home.
And at times I miss being in the heart of Chelsea and seeing the amazing modern artists or the tea house I used to go to that had coy swimming in the floor but I couldn’t imagine Drew growing up a city kid. For me though, it will always be home. But the Chelsea in my mind. While the row houses are still there since zoning laws prohibit changing them (something I whole-heartedly believe in – preserving our architectural history), Barney’s is long gone and the Hotel Chelsea has been closed for over a year though it is supposed to be under construction. It is a landmark so they are restoring it not destroying it. Hopefully.
I always thought of myself as a Chelsea girl… and still do. Chelsea is with me regardless of whether I’m there or not. And Chelsea holds so many memories for me that one day, I hope to tell Drew. The way he’ll feel about where we live now… is how I feel about Chelsea. There’s no place like home.